Friday, May 24, 2013

Who Cares ?


     

                Demonstrations held outside Gap offices following a series of tragedies in Bangladesh
              
              It came as no surprise to me, as I scanned the results of a recent NPR study, to learn that just a 5% price increase was enough to deter two thirds of shoppers from purchasing garments labeled as “ethically produced.” However the survey also cited that in an experiment where the price of both garments was kept the same, of costumers who recognized the label only 50% chose to purchase them versus the unlabeled identical pair. This lead me to believe the middling resistance against corporations using sweatshops, save for the weeks following a tragedy, is because shoppers (we) lack an emotional response when given the option between ethical and unethical clothing. We lack empathy.
Our favorite clothing companies, are chiefly responsible for this. They have done a great job of dissociating their brand with negative images of abuse and unhealthy conditions in their factories across the world. Forfeiting vertical integration for reasonable deniability these companies send manufacturing duties to nameless production companies to further distance their involvement. A NYT article published shortly after the Bangladesh factory collapse detailed this relationship, “Production is farmed out to contractors and subcontractors with revolving labor pools. Last year, Walmart claimed that it did not know that a supplier had subcontracted orders to a Bangladeshi factory where more than 112 workers died in a fire.” Corporations use these "middle men" to evade the inevitable clean up. 
Companies must be held responsible for their actions. No other avenue of action will solve the global issue of sprawling sweatshops and unethical treatment of workers. If our money represents votes determining validity of a company and their product then aren’t we also condoning unethical treatment of factory workers?  The NPR study showed that the issue was not dependent of money but also on awareness and perceived sense of agency. Steven Greenhouse, a columnist with the New York Times wrote, “There have to be signals to government and suppliers, especially when you have loss of life, that positive steps have to be taken,” he said. “But you also have to have companies saying, ‘Enough is enough. We want to see significant change or we can’t source here.’ ”
In terms of solutions that we as high schools and contributors to the global market can enact Richard Locke, deputy dean of M.I.T.’s Sloan School of Management says seeking to further our own knowledge, “About how the things we buy everyday are made,” is the first step to making a difference. The occurrences in Bangladesh have inspired me to continue the strides we’ve made in class and extend our message to the community as a personal initiative that I felt spoke to me.

Wednesday, May 22, 2013

What are We Really Buying?





            I love the thrill of a buy; a new shirt, new pants, especially new shoes.  And if it was on sale? It basically had “Jessica, you have to buy this” written in orange neon paint all over it. Whenever I go shopping I skip right to the sale racks marked 30%, 50%, and 60% off. With the little amount of money I have to spend, of course I want to get the most out of it. There are only two simple rules when I’m on the hunt to fill my closet. 1. Is this cute? 2. How much is it? If I’m paying? Maximum of $30 (It’s a different story when my mom’s buying). In light of the recent Bangladesh garment-factory building collapse, the question as to how ethical the clothing we buy has arisen. I have to admit, I’ve never considered whether or not the clothes I wear were made under safe and humane conditions. The fact that it took the 1,127 deaths reported by Fox News to bring this issue to attention is saddening and I’m just one in the oblivious crowd.


 
            In researching ethical clothing manufacturers, I found that there are many companies that actually manufacture ethical goods. Not only do they exist but they have been in service for decades, the idea is not groundbreaking. One company founded by Jo Wood, Jo Wood Organics, is dedicated to green and ethical cosmetic products. In an interview with The Guardian, Jo talks about her definition of ethical. When the issue of clothing manufacturing was brought up, she commented “Over two thirds of the world's cotton is grown in developing countries... Valued at over $32 billion every year, global cotton production should be improving lives. But this "white gold" too often brings misery” in Jo’s mind, “Along with the poverty and appalling working conditions created, the impact environmentally is enormously detrimental due to the chemicals used and the vast distances these items have to travel to get to the future buyers”. In Jo’s bio, she writes about her initial interest in starting her organic line of cosmetics that would be good for both one’s body and the environment. When she was misdiagnosed with Crohn’s Disease in 1989 she became fully dedicated to the natural ethical cause. Her company was a result of her extreme commitment to an organic lifestyle. Launching in 2005 Jo Wood has become a brand used by many celebrities and has gained recognition with Britain’s Next Top Model and has even been voted Grazia’s woman of the year.
                                                                    
                                                                                                                                                  Pier 32
          Individuals dedicated to the issue of ethicality of clothing is nice but to truly start a movement, large companies such as Pier 32 need to be made public. Pier 32 is a company dedicated to the production of ethical promotional clothing in the United Kingdom. As the company website admits, the company did not start out as ethical; instead it progressed and became an ethical establishment. Managing Director Gerry Hayter rebranded his merchandising company into one that was aware and concerned with the manufacturing sources of its t-shirts. Hayter immediately started outsourcing from Cotton Club (A fully vertically integrated manufacturing facility in North Africa which distributes under the name of Starworld). The company has grown to include over 50 different brands today giving customers a choice of style in their ethical choices. Aside from using ethical cotton factories, Pier 32 has also grown into the field of sustainable clothing by using materials such as organic cotton, sustainable bamboo, sustainable eucalyptus and even recycled plastic bottles in their T-shirts. Much like Jo Wood, Pier 32 has dedicated itself to ethical practices and green living.

                                                              
                                                                                                                         American Rag logo            

            These national brands are great ways to follow the pack and support worthy causes but the real challenge is to get your local community involved in the fight against unethical practices in clothing production. Buying ethically made clothing is great for the conscience but by spreading the word about the importance of where our clothing is made, you make a difference. I recently found out in Guide to Sweatshops, that one of my favorite brands “American Rag” actually uses sweatshops in its clothing production. While I contemplate what’s more important, a cute shirt or a human life I face in internal conflict. I admit that it’s hard to think about having to completely cut out a brand that has been by my side for so long, but it’s hard to think about over a thousand people dying to provide you with something as short-lived as a t-shirt.